Guides
How to choose a roofer, and the questions that actually tell you something
Most of the standard advice is useless because the answer is always yes. These are the checks that genuinely discriminate, plus the reasons a higher price is sometimes the right one.
- Questions that tell you nothing
- Is the firm real
- The written quote
- What a guarantee means
- Deposits and payment
- The walk away list
- Why higher can be right
The questions that sound sensible but tell you nothing
Before the useful checks, it is worth clearing out the ones people rely on that carry almost no information.
- How long have you been trading? A confident answer costs nothing to give and cannot be checked on your doorstep. Check it yourself.
- Are you insured? Everybody says yes. What discriminates is seeing the certificate, and whether it is in date, the right type and in the right name.
- Are you accredited? Logos on a van are printed, not earned.
- Do you guarantee your work? Everybody says yes. Guarantee is not a defined term, and one from a firm that dissolves is worth nothing.
- Can you start next week? Availability is not a quality signal. The best local firms are usually the least available.
None of those is a wrong question. They just get the same answer from every firm, good or bad, so they separate nobody. What follows does.
Step one: is the firm what it says it is
The insurance certificate
Ask for a copy. Not a policy number, not a photo of a card, the actual certificate. Then check four things:
- In date. Check the expiry, not the issue date. Cover that lapses mid-job is a problem you discover at the worst moment.
- The right type. Public liability covers damage to your property and injury to third parties. Employers' liability is a legal requirement where the firm has employees and is a separate document. A firm using labour with no employers' liability is a warning in itself.
- The right name. It should match the name on the quote and the account you are paying. Certificates in the name of a different or dissolved company are commoner than you would think.
- Enough cover. Judge the public liability figure against what it would cost to put your house right if something went badly wrong.
If a firm is reluctant to send it, that is your answer. Legitimate firms send it without comment because they get asked constantly.
The company itself
Where the firm is a limited company, the registration number should appear on the quote and the invoice. Look it up on the Companies House register, which is free. It shows the incorporation date, whether filings are up to date, the directors, and whether the company is being struck off. A company incorporated last month under a long-established sounding name deserves a question, and a director with a trail of dissolved companies is a pattern, especially if a large deposit is being asked for.
A sole trader is entirely legitimate and often a good sign of a long-standing local business. There you check a trading history instead: how long they have worked locally, references, and a business address rather than only a mobile number.
Trade body membership
This is where people over-invest. Membership tells you something, but rarely what they assume it tells them.
- Some schemes assess the firm, check insurance and financial standing and run a complaints process. That is worth something real.
- Some are directory listings any firm can join by subscription, and membership almost never means the association will put your roof right if the firm does not.
- A logo on a van is not evidence. If a scheme matters to you, check the membership on that scheme's own register, by company name.
A firm belonging to nothing is not automatically bad. Plenty of excellent long-standing family businesses have never joined a scheme, because their work comes from people down the road. Weigh membership as one signal, never as a substitute for the certificate and the references. What gets checked before a firm is introduced through this site is set out on how it works.
Step two: the written quote
A price scribbled on a card is not a quote. What you want is a document a stranger could read and understand exactly what is being done, and for how much.
- The scope in plain terms. Which roof, which slopes, what is being removed and what is being left.
- The actual materials, named. Concrete tiles is not a specification. Underlay, battens, ridge system, flashing and fixings should all be identified, and lead specified by code.
- Scaffolding: included or not. One of the biggest line items and the thing most often left out of a cheap quote.
- Waste removal and making good. Skips, tip charges and the state the site will be left in.
- What happens if rot is found. Nobody knows the condition of the battens and timbers until the covering is off. A good quote says what is included and gives a rate for extra timber. One that is silent is not cheaper, it is unfinished.
- The price, with VAT stated. Figures presented excluding VAT look twenty per cent cheaper than they are.
- Timescale and payment terms. Start date, rough duration, and when money falls due.
Compare quotes line by line rather than by total. Three quotes for a re-roof that differ by thousands are usually three different jobs, and the cheapest is frequently the one with no scaffold and no timber allowance in it. Sense-check the totals against our guide ranges and the roof repair cost guide. A number well below the range deserves as much suspicion as one well above it.
Step three: what a guarantee actually means
Guarantee is the most abused word in home improvement. Three different things get described with it and they are not equivalent.
A workmanship guarantee
A promise from the firm that if their work fails within a stated period they will put it right. It is only ever as good as the firm behind it: if the company stops trading, the guarantee stops existing. That is why the Companies House check matters. A twenty-year guarantee from a company incorporated eight months ago is a marketing line, not a protection.
A manufacturer's product warranty
Covers the material, not the installation, and usually only where the product was installed to specification. Worth having, but it does not cover the failure you are most likely to suffer, which is workmanship.
An insurance-backed guarantee
A separate policy from a third party that steps in if the firm ceases trading and cannot honour its own guarantee. The only one of the three that survives the firm going under.
If a firm offers one, ask who the underwriter is, ask for the policy document rather than a certificate with a logo on it, and check what it covers and for how long. Some require the work to be registered within a set period after completion, which is the sort of detail that quietly voids cover.
Proportion matters. On a few hundred pounds of repair, a workmanship guarantee from a firm you have checked is fine. On a five-figure re-roof, it is reasonable to ask what happens if the firm no longer exists in five years.
Step four: deposits, payment and references
What is normal
- For a small repair, nothing up front. You pay on completion.
- For a larger job, a deposit covering materials ordered specifically for you, commonly ten to twenty-five per cent, explained in terms of what it buys.
- For a big job, staged payments tied to completed stages, with a final payment held back until you have seen the finished work.
- Payment by bank transfer or card to a named business account, against an invoice.
What is not
- A large deposit demanded before anything has been ordered, particularly in cash.
- Full payment up front. Never necessary on domestic roofing.
- Cash only, or a discount that exists only if you pay cash. It removes your paper trail and your comeback.
- Payment into a personal account in a different name from the business.
- Escalating demands mid-job, where more money is needed before work continues on something already quoted.
Paying part of a large job by credit card can give you additional protection through the card provider above a certain value, which is usually worth more than any card fee.
References that are worth taking
Ask for two, for similar jobs done nearby in the last year or two. Then actually contact them, and if you can, drive past and look at the roof from the road.
The useful questions are not whether they were happy. They are: did the final price match the quote, did the firm turn up when it said it would, what happened when something unexpected came up, and did you have to chase anybody afterwards.
A firm that cannot produce two recent local references for your type of work has either not done much of it or not done it well. Twenty years of concrete tile experience does not qualify somebody for a Collyweston stone slate roof, and a firm that mostly does flat roofing is not automatically right for tiling and slating.
The walk away list
Any one of these is a reason to slow down. Two or more together and the answer is no, however plausible the person in front of you.
- They knocked on your door uninvited, or approached you after a storm.
- They want to go up and take a look before anything has been agreed.
- The price is only valid today, or drops sharply the moment you hesitate.
- They will not put the quote in writing with the materials specified, or will not provide an insurance certificate.
- No company registration number, no business address, a mobile number and nothing else.
- Cash up front, or a large deposit before anything has been ordered.
- They diagnose an expensive problem from the ground, or from a photograph on their own phone that you did not take.
- They tell you it is urgent and dangerous and offer to start immediately, and want you to sign on the spot.
- They discourage you from getting other quotes.
- They propose spray foam, a bituminous coating, or cement mortar on a traditional roof.
The doorstep pattern is at its worst after bad weather. It is covered in detail in the storm damage guide, including the right to cancel a contract agreed at your door, which is the single most useful thing to know if you have already signed one.
One rule that removes most of the risk
Never buy roofing from somebody who found you. Buy it from somebody you found.
Approach firms yourself, or use a service that puts you in front of firms you have not been cold-called by. Our quote comparison is one way, and it is free.
Why the cheapest quote is often the wrong one
It would be easy for a site funded by roofing firms to tell you expensive means good. That is not the argument. Price differences in roofing are almost always explainable, and a buyer who understands them decides better than one who sorts by total.
Legitimate reasons one quote is higher
- Scaffolding is included. Often the single largest line, and a mid-terrace with awkward rear access costs more to scaffold than a detached house on an open plot with the same roof area.
- A realistic timber allowance. A firm that has priced for some battens and a length of wall plate has priced for reality. The one that has not will find it once the tiles are off and ask you for more.
- Better materials. Underlay, battens, fixings, ridge systems and lead codes vary enormously in price, and almost none of it is visible once the job is finished.
- A dry ridge system rather than mortar. Dearer up front, mechanically fixed, and far more resistant to wind uplift, which matters on an exposed fen-edge site.
- Full stripping and disposal. Skips and tip charges are real money, and covering over an existing roof is a corner being cut.
- A real business behind it. Employed labour, employers' liability, vehicles and someone who comes back when there is a problem all cost money that a man with a ladder does not carry.
- VAT. A VAT-registered firm's quote looks twenty per cent worse than an unregistered one for identical work.
What a suspiciously low quote usually means
- No scaffolding, or scaffolding for you to arrange and pay for later.
- No allowance for timber, so a variation is already on its way.
- Cheaper underlay, fewer fixings, mortar where a mechanical fixing belongs, or the existing covering left in place under the new one.
- No VAT because the work is off the books, which also means no invoice, no guarantee and no comeback.
- A price designed to win the job, with the real number arriving once the roof is open and you have no options.
The right quote is usually neither the highest nor the lowest. It is the one where you can see what you are paying for, line by line, and where the firm checks out. Our guide ranges give you that reference point before the first number lands, and if a quote through us sits well outside them, tell us. For emergency work, where the pressure to decide fast is highest, read emergency roofing first.
Frequently asked questions
Two or three for anything beyond a small repair. More than that and you start wasting good firms' time, which they notice.
The value is not in finding the lowest number. It is in seeing where three specifications differ, because that is where the corners are being cut.
For a small repair, no. For a larger job, a deposit covering materials ordered specifically for you is reasonable, commonly somewhere between ten and twenty-five per cent, and it should be explained in terms of what it buys.
Full payment up front is never necessary on domestic roofing, and a large cash deposit before anything has been ordered is a warning.
Public liability as a minimum, which covers damage to your property and injury to third parties. Employers' liability is a legal requirement where the firm has employees, and it is a separate certificate.
Ask for copies, check the expiry date, and check the name on the certificate matches the name on the quote and the account you are paying.
No, and plenty of excellent long-established local firms are not members of anything, because their work comes by word of mouth.
Where a scheme does carry out real assessment and operates a complaints process, membership is a useful signal. Check it on the scheme's own register rather than believing a logo on a van.
If it is a limited company, look up the registration number on the Companies House register. That is free and shows the incorporation date, the directors, whether filings are up to date and whether it is being struck off.
If it is a sole trader, you are checking a trading history and a real address instead: how long they have been working locally, two recent references you actually contact, and a business address rather than only a mobile number.
The scope, the named materials, whether scaffolding is included, waste removal, what happens if rot is found and at what rate, the total with VAT stated, the timescale and the payment terms.
If any of those are missing, ask. Comparing totals between quotes that cover different work is the most common way people overpay or end up with a half-done job.
Only as much as the firm giving it. A workmanship guarantee dies with the company, so a long guarantee from a business incorporated recently is a marketing line rather than a protection.
An insurance-backed guarantee, underwritten by a third party, is the only kind that survives the firm ceasing to trade. Ask who the underwriter is and read the policy rather than the certificate.
The safest answer is no. Take the details, close the door, and check them properly before you contact anyone. If they are genuine they will still be genuine tomorrow.
Never let an uninvited caller onto your roof, never pay cash up front and never sign on the day. If you already have, you normally have 14 days to cancel a contract agreed at your home, and Citizens Advice can confirm where you stand.
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